Excited to catch the sunrise at Bulethi, we woke up at 5am, had a quick wash up and set off in 15 minutes. We practically cycled non-stop at full speed to be in time for the sunrise at 5.40am. There were quite a number of e-bikes and taxis parked at the bottom of the pagoda. Near the entrance, we were greeted by a few of the locals, requesting to see our Entrance cards (the ones that we paid 25,000 kyat each upon arrival). A brought but I left mine in the room. We managed to negotiate and told them that we were staying at Royal Bagan. They then let us in without additional charge. So if you are going to Bagan, please always bring the entrance cards with you because you wouldn't know when there would be a check. If the officials are nasty, they may make you pay another 25,000 kyat for the card.
As we climbed up the steps to the top, we noticed that the sky was very cloudy, and started to worry that we wouldn't be able to see the sunrise.
We needed to check out by 12.00pm, hence we left our bags at the reception and went pagoda hopping in the afternoon. There were so many places to explore. Looking back, if only we had been more brave to get the e-bikes, we would be able to cover more places. Nonetheless, cycling was a good form of exercise for the 2 days in Bagan.
First major stop was at Ywa-haung-gyi Pagoda. It is now an abandoned pagoda but looking at the size and structure, I believe it used to be a popular spot for worship.
We then headed towards Old Bagan, passing by Ananda Temple (one of the few surviving temples in Bagan). It was pretty difficult finding our way into Ananda Temple as there are 4 entrances/gates but only the main gate was opened. We didn't know about it and just went round the temple perimeter and finally found our way to the main entrance.
To enter into Old Bagan from Bagan City, you are likely to be coming from the Tharaba Gate. Tharaba gate is the main gate of the east wall and the only structure left of the old city built by King Pyinbya. It was built in 849 A.D during the 9th century. The western and northern part of the city wall were washed away by the river. There was originally twelve gates during that time. "Tharaba" is derived from the Pali term "Sarabhanga" meaning "shielded against arrows".
Built just opposite the excavated site of the actual palace just in from the Tharaba Gate, the Bagan Golden Palace was only reopened to public in 2008. You'll be surprised to find ATMs inside the palace! So we saw a few tourists trying to access the ATMs but had to pay the entrance fees just to get to the ATMs. We finished walking the area in 30 minutes and by the time we felt hungry, it was already 2.30pm. Lunch was settled in the palace. Even though it is a tourist attraction, the food was still relatively cheap at 3,100 kyat (S$3.44) for 2 pax.
We headed back to Royal Bagan after Shwegu Gyi to wash up and wait for the transfer to the bus terminal. We chanced upon a herd of cattles which seemed to have malnutrition. Apparently all the domestic animals that we saw, seemed to be suffering from malnutrition. Our last photo of Bagan. Looking at all the pagodas and temples in the photos, you would have seen for yourselves that Bagan has far too many for one to visit/explore.
Other than pagodas, Bagan is also known for its Tamarind Flakes! Before leaving Bagan, we bought the legendary tamarind flakes from one of the convenience stores at about 4,500 kyats (S$5.00) for 3 packets. They are pretty addictive, with a tinge of sweetness and sourness. Some restaurants in Bagan would give customers these tamarind flakes at the end of their meals (just like how we may receive mentos or mint sweet after a meal from some restaurants in Singapore). Be sure to get the Myin Mo Do Tamarind Flakes. Note that the tamarind flakes should be kept air tight as much as possible, else it would oxidise and not taste fresh.
There were many others leaving for Yangon that night, and we were all taking turns to shower in the hotel's common bathroom next to the very small swimming pool. The truck was supposed to pick us up at 7.00pm for the 8.00pm bus departure. It left us impatient because even at 7.30pm, there was no sight of the truck. When it finally arrived, everyone was helping each other with loading of backpacks and making space for all. The truck was something like a songtheaw that you often see in Thailand.
We finally arrived at the bus terminal. It felt different from when we first arrived in Bagan. The stalls were opened for business and the area was more lively. We got our tickets, and rushed to grab biscuits and snacks for our dinner on board the bus. The bus was disappointing, as compared to JJ Express. It's not as comfortable and spacious as JJ and the seats couldn't recline as much. To sum it up, we hardly slept well on the journey back to Yangon. Too bad Royal Bagan only worked with Bagan Min Thar (but not JJ Express), and that was our only choice to get back to Yangon. 😢
As we climbed up the steps to the top, we noticed that the sky was very cloudy, and started to worry that we wouldn't be able to see the sunrise.
Everyone else started to leave and we were one of the few left behind. Instead of leaving Bagan with regrets, we started taking more pictures of the area since we would be leaving for Yangon in the evening.
Back to Royal Bagan for breakfast. No sunrise view but I had a nice yolk for breakfast! After breakfast, we went back to bed. HAHAHA! Life in Bagan was just so laid back.
We needed to check out by 12.00pm, hence we left our bags at the reception and went pagoda hopping in the afternoon. There were so many places to explore. Looking back, if only we had been more brave to get the e-bikes, we would be able to cover more places. Nonetheless, cycling was a good form of exercise for the 2 days in Bagan.
First major stop was at Ywa-haung-gyi Pagoda. It is now an abandoned pagoda but looking at the size and structure, I believe it used to be a popular spot for worship.
We then headed towards Old Bagan, passing by Ananda Temple (one of the few surviving temples in Bagan). It was pretty difficult finding our way into Ananda Temple as there are 4 entrances/gates but only the main gate was opened. We didn't know about it and just went round the temple perimeter and finally found our way to the main entrance.
To enter into Old Bagan from Bagan City, you are likely to be coming from the Tharaba Gate. Tharaba gate is the main gate of the east wall and the only structure left of the old city built by King Pyinbya. It was built in 849 A.D during the 9th century. The western and northern part of the city wall were washed away by the river. There was originally twelve gates during that time. "Tharaba" is derived from the Pali term "Sarabhanga" meaning "shielded against arrows".
Built just opposite the excavated site of the actual palace just in from the Tharaba Gate, the Bagan Golden Palace was only reopened to public in 2008. You'll be surprised to find ATMs inside the palace! So we saw a few tourists trying to access the ATMs but had to pay the entrance fees just to get to the ATMs. We finished walking the area in 30 minutes and by the time we felt hungry, it was already 2.30pm. Lunch was settled in the palace. Even though it is a tourist attraction, the food was still relatively cheap at 3,100 kyat (S$3.44) for 2 pax.
Shwegu Gyi Phaya and Thatbyinnyu Phaya are just further down the road. Hence we visited both on our way back to Bagan City. The street outside Thatbyinnyu had a row of stalls selling drinks and souvenirs. Some of the locals would be loitering near the entrance and bug you to buy souvenirs from them. We tried to brush this lady off by saying we'll go back to her later when we were done with the temple. We assumed that there were so many other visitors and she wouldn't remember us. So we walked around Thatbyinnyu to see the structures and had to hurriedly leave on our bicycles upon our exit, hoping that the lady wouldn't spot us. You will be amazed at how desperate they are in terms of getting business. She ran towards us and our bicycles shouting for our attention. We just left without even entertaining her or looking back.
Shwegu Gyi is more open and allows visitors to want to explore more. To get to the temple, you would need to go up a small flight of steps (where locals would probably be seen selling drinks and souvenirs), remove your shoes, open the little gate and go up another few steps. Inside the temple, there is a small stairway hidden at a corner that allows visitors to go up to the higher level.
Other than pagodas, Bagan is also known for its Tamarind Flakes! Before leaving Bagan, we bought the legendary tamarind flakes from one of the convenience stores at about 4,500 kyats (S$5.00) for 3 packets. They are pretty addictive, with a tinge of sweetness and sourness. Some restaurants in Bagan would give customers these tamarind flakes at the end of their meals (just like how we may receive mentos or mint sweet after a meal from some restaurants in Singapore). Be sure to get the Myin Mo Do Tamarind Flakes. Note that the tamarind flakes should be kept air tight as much as possible, else it would oxidise and not taste fresh.
There were many others leaving for Yangon that night, and we were all taking turns to shower in the hotel's common bathroom next to the very small swimming pool. The truck was supposed to pick us up at 7.00pm for the 8.00pm bus departure. It left us impatient because even at 7.30pm, there was no sight of the truck. When it finally arrived, everyone was helping each other with loading of backpacks and making space for all. The truck was something like a songtheaw that you often see in Thailand.
We finally arrived at the bus terminal. It felt different from when we first arrived in Bagan. The stalls were opened for business and the area was more lively. We got our tickets, and rushed to grab biscuits and snacks for our dinner on board the bus. The bus was disappointing, as compared to JJ Express. It's not as comfortable and spacious as JJ and the seats couldn't recline as much. To sum it up, we hardly slept well on the journey back to Yangon. Too bad Royal Bagan only worked with Bagan Min Thar (but not JJ Express), and that was our only choice to get back to Yangon. 😢
Bagan Golden Palace
Opening Hours: 9.00am to 6.00pm
Entrance Fees: 5,000 kyat
Opening Hours: 9.00am to 6.00pm
Entrance Fees: 5,000 kyat
[Pictures taken using Samsung Galaxy S5 and Oppo]
More on Myanmar:
Day 1: Yangon (6 Jun 2016)
Day 2: Bagan (7 Jun 2016)
Day 4: Yangon (9 Jun 2016)
Day 5: Yangon (10 Jun 2016)
More on Myanmar:
Day 1: Yangon (6 Jun 2016)
Day 2: Bagan (7 Jun 2016)
Day 4: Yangon (9 Jun 2016)
Day 5: Yangon (10 Jun 2016)
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